John Malkovich on Lucien Lelong: The Unsung Mentor Who Shaped Christian Dior and Preserved French Fashion in ‘The New Look’

Apple TV+’s compelling new drama, The New Look, transports viewers to the tumultuous era of World War II, offering a profound glimpse into the lives of iconic fashion designers, most notably Christian Dior, and their contemporaries. This richly detailed series explores how these creative visionaries navigated unimaginable challenges and horrors to fundamentally reshape modern fashion. At the heart of this historical narrative, and a pivotal figure behind many of these rising stars, was the esteemed French couturier Lucien Lelong. Renowned actor John Malkovich, who portrays Lelong in the series, recently shared exclusive insights with Hollywood Life about Lelong’s profound and often understated impact on Dior’s nascent career and the broader French fashion industry during those critical years.

During a press junket for the highly anticipated show, Malkovich, 70, articulated Lelong’s unique contribution to the fashion world. “Lucien Lelong was fundamentally a gentleman who presided over his own prominent fashion house,” Malkovich explained to Hollywood Life. “While he might not be remembered primarily as a revolutionary designer himself, his genius lay in his exceptionally keen eye and discerning nose for identifying raw, prodigious talent.” This acute ability to spot and nurture brilliance was Lelong’s true legacy, setting him apart in a highly competitive industry. Malkovich elaborated on the extraordinary roster of individuals who honed their craft within the walls of Lelong’s esteemed studio, noting, “Among the luminaries who emerged from Lelong’s mentorship were names that would eventually define haute couture: Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Pierre Cardin, to name just a few. It’s clear he possessed an unparalleled knack for identifying potential and fostering its growth.” Malkovich firmly believes that Christian Dior, already immensely gifted, truly “flourished under Lelong’s guidance, I guess you would say,” indicating a transformative period of development for the young designer.

Lelong’s role extended far beyond mere employment; he provided a crucible for creativity and a sanctuary amidst the chaos of war. He created an environment where budding geniuses could experiment, learn, and develop their distinctive artistic voices, free from some of the immediate pressures of self-preservation. Dior, in particular, benefited immensely from this unique mentorship. Lelong didn’t just manage a business; he cultivated a garden of talent, understanding that true innovation required both freedom and structure, especially during a time when resources were scarce and morale was low. This historical context enriches the narrative of The New Look, revealing the intricate web of relationships and influences that shaped an entire era of design, laying the groundwork for post-war fashion’s resurgence.

Malkovich further delved into the complexities of Dior’s character and his dynamic with Lelong. “I think Dior was someone exceptionally talented, but also hypersensitive and likely quite difficult, especially given the societal climate of the time,” Malkovich reflected. He highlighted the immense personal struggle faced by homosexual individuals during World War II, a period when “homosexuals couldn’t live openly. It wasn’t accepted by society, unfortunately, and that was a real torture for many people who couldn’t live honestly and live openly, at least as openly as any person can live, which may not be much.” In this profoundly challenging and repressive environment, Lelong’s understanding and protective nature proved invaluable. Malkovich views their relationship as a “pretty good pairing,” explaining, “I think Lelong was able to expertly manage Dior’s sensitivities, offering him the stability and support needed to produce his beautiful work. Crucially, he kept Dior employed during the war years and the German occupation, a period where many artists struggled to survive, let alone create.”

Beyond his direct mentorship of designers, Lucien Lelong played an even grander, unsung role in safeguarding French cultural heritage. During the occupation, the Nazi regime harbored ambitions of relocating the epicenter of high fashion from Paris to Berlin – a strategic move that would have dealt a devastating blow to France’s identity, economy, and its global standing in the arts. Lelong, through shrewd negotiations, diplomatic finesse, and unwavering resolve, became a formidable bulwark against this threat. “Lelong was someone who had a great role to play in keeping the French fashion business in France, rather than having it transferred to Berlin, which was one dream and goal of the Nazis,” Malkovich emphasized. This remarkable feat underscores Lelong’s profound patriotism and his deep understanding of fashion’s significance not just as an industry, but as a crucial pillar of French culture and national pride. His tireless efforts ensured that Parisian haute couture, with its unparalleled artistry and innovation, remained firmly rooted in its spiritual home, ready to reclaim its global dominance once peace returned and a new aesthetic could emerge.

The Apple TV+ series, which made its highly anticipated premiere on February 14, meticulously chronicles this period, showcasing the brilliant artistry that emerged from the hands of Dior and his contemporaries amidst unimaginable adversity. Malkovich, a multi-talented artist with a personal connection to the world of design, noted his enduring admiration for the craft. He stated that he’s “always had great respect for the work and fashion,” a sentiment that informs his nuanced portrayal of Lelong and the pressures faced by the industry during wartime. This deep appreciation is rooted in his own extensive experience within the creative field.

Expanding on his personal history with fashion, Malkovich revealed, “I did 24, 26 collections myself under different lines, and it’s a lot of work, and it’s a very beautiful work.” His firsthand experience as a designer provides him with a unique lens through which to appreciate Lelong’s and Dior’s struggles and triumphs, particularly the meticulous nature of haute couture. He finds the creative aspect of fashion particularly “compelling, very interesting, because unlike cinema or theater or some other forms I work in, it’s only about details.” This laser focus on minutiae – the cut of a fabric, the drape of a hem, the placement of an embellishment – is what truly captivates him about design. “That’s something that always compels and intrigues me,” he elaborated. “Why this and not that? The subtle choices that can dramatically alter a garment’s impact, its narrative, and its resonance with the wearer.” This profound appreciation for the craft means Malkovich approached his portrayal of Lelong with an inherent understanding of the fashion world’s intricacies and pressures, bringing an authentic depth to the character. He concluded, “I always had great respect for designers, and it was something I was always interested in,” underscoring his natural affinity for the role.

The significance of Lucien Lelong’s multifaceted role, not only in mentoring a generation of groundbreaking designers but also in courageously defending French fashion’s integrity against wartime threats, cannot be overstated. He was a quiet, strategic hero whose actions ensured that post-war Paris could once again emerge as the undisputed capital of style, paving the way for Christian Dior’s revolutionary “New Look” to redefine femininity, elegance, and hope itself in a world yearning for beauty. The series, by bringing Lelong’s story to the forefront with such compelling performances, offers a crucial missing piece in the narrative of modern fashion history, highlighting the often-overlooked figures whose strategic brilliance and unwavering commitment laid the groundwork for future glories and shaped the aesthetic landscape we still admire today.

In addition to the compelling performances by John Malkovich as Lucien Lelong and Ben Mendelsohn as Christian Dior, the series boasts an stellar ensemble cast, including the talented Juliette Binoche as Coco Chanel and Maisie Williams as Catherine Dior, among others. Each actor brings depth and nuance to their respective roles, painting a vivid portrait of a world on the brink of profound change and a pivotal moment in fashion history. Viewers eager to immerse themselves in this fascinating period of history and high fashion can watch new episodes of The New Look as they premiere every Wednesday on Apple TV+, uncovering the untold stories behind the iconic designs.