Recreating the 70s: Inside BlacKkKlansman’s Award-Winning Hair & Makeup Artistry

Spike Lee’s critically acclaimed film, BlacKkKlansman, transports audiences back to the tumultuous 1970s, a period rich in cultural shifts, social activism, and distinctive aesthetics. While the film’s compelling narrative and powerful performances have garnered widespread praise, an often-underestimated yet profoundly crucial element of its success lies in its meticulous recreation of the era’s visual identity. The hair and makeup departments, led by department head LaWanda Pierre-Weston and make-up department head Martha Melendez, were instrumental in this authenticity, meticulously crafting every detail to ensure viewers were fully immersed in the period.

As BlacKkKlansman navigated a successful awards season, accumulating numerous nominations, anticipation for its performance at the Academy Awards remained high, particularly in categories recognizing technical artistry like Best Makeup and Hairstyling. The film’s ability to seamlessly blend its narrative with genuine 1970s style is a testament to the dedication of these artists. In an exclusive interview, Pierre-Weston and Melendez shared insights into their rigorous process of accurately depicting the era’s looks and underscored the indispensable role that spot-on hair and makeup play in a period piece.

The Unsung Heroes of Authenticity: Hair and Makeup’s Crucial Role

For any historical drama, especially one as rooted in a specific cultural moment as BlacKkKlansman, authenticity is paramount. Martha Melendez eloquently articulated this principle, explaining, “Every facet of a film is important. The writers, the director, the cinematographer, the costume designers, the production designers and hair and makeup. Not one component can be off or it will set the tone of the film off.” Her words highlight a fundamental truth in filmmaking: the collective effort of every department contributes to the film’s overall coherence and believability. A single anachronistic detail can disrupt the audience’s immersion, pulling them out of the story and undermining the filmmaker’s intent.

Melendez elaborated on this, providing a clear example: “So, for instance, if hair is not tuned to 1970s and it’s done in today’s period, or any other decade, it’s going to set the tone off.” LaWanda Pierre-Weston echoed this sentiment, emphasizing, “It’s very important for the authenticity of the film, for the look to be on point and look as genuine as possible.” This shared philosophy guided their every decision, from the subtle nuances of a character’s complexion to the intricate styling of their hair, ensuring that the visual narrative was as historically accurate as the script itself.

Diving Deep into 1970s Hair Trends: The Iconic Afro and Beyond

The 1970s was a decade of profound social and political change, and nowhere was this more evident than in fashion and hairstyles. For the hair department, led by LaWanda Pierre-Weston, recreating the iconic 1970s afro was a central, yet nuanced, task. The afro, a powerful symbol of Black pride and cultural identity, took many forms throughout the decade, from perfectly sculpted spherical shapes to more relaxed, natural styles. Pierre-Weston’s team beautifully reproduced these looks, utilizing a combination of expert styling and carefully selected products. She specifically mentioned the use of Shea Moisture and Living Proof products, indicating a focus on nourishing and defining natural textures while maintaining period-appropriate volume and shape.

Beyond the afro, the 1970s saw a diverse range of hairstyles. While the film primarily focuses on African American characters, capturing the full spectrum of 70s hair involved understanding styles that ranged from long, straight, parted hair to feathered looks, and various natural textures. Pierre-Weston’s challenge was to ensure that each character’s hair not only looked like it belonged in the 70s but also reflected their individual personality, social standing, and specific role within the narrative. This involved a meticulous approach to wig construction, styling, and blending with the actors’ natural hair, ensuring a seamless and believable transformation for the talented cast, including stars like John David Washington and Adam Driver.

Mastering 1970s Makeup: Natural Hues and Subtle Glamour

Martha Melendez’s approach to makeup for BlacKkKlansman was equally steeped in historical accuracy. The 1970s makeup aesthetic, particularly in the early to mid-decade, often leaned towards a more natural, radiant look, emphasizing healthy skin and subtle enhancements rather than heavy, dramatic applications. For the cast, Melendez strategically employed products like Nars and Armani liquid blushes. These choices suggest a preference for buildable, natural-looking color that would impart a healthy flush to the cheeks, avoiding the overly powdered or heavily contoured looks that became popular in later decades or during specific disco trends. The goal was to create faces that looked lived-in and authentic to the characters’ everyday lives, whether they were police officers, students, or members of the Ku Klux Klan.

Lip care and subtle enhancement were also key. Melendez revealed that Dr. Hauschka Lip Balm was a favorite for lip moisturizing. This detail points to a focus on natural, healthy lips, possibly with just a hint of sheer color or gloss, a common trend of the era. Unlike the bold, opaque lipsticks of the 1940s or the frosted pastels of the 1980s, the 70s often favored a more understated approach to the mouth, allowing the natural lip color to shine through or be gently enhanced. This choice further underscores the commitment to depicting a realistic, rather than overly stylized, 1970s appearance for the film’s diverse ensemble.

The Rigors of Research: Beyond Just Photos

Achieving such an intricate level of detail demanded extensive and dedicated research from both department heads. Their methods went far beyond a cursory glance at vintage photos, delving into various primary and secondary sources to build a comprehensive understanding of the era’s visual landscape.

LaWanda Pierre-Weston’s Deep Dive into Cultural Archives:

For LaWanda Pierre-Weston, inspiration and accuracy came from a blend of popular culture and personal history. “I looked at a lot of images online. Old Ebony magazines, some Soul Train episodes,” she recounted. Ebony magazine, a prominent publication for African Americans, was an invaluable resource for understanding the nuances of Black fashion, hairstyles, and beauty standards of the time. Similarly, Soul Train, the iconic music variety show, provided a dynamic visual record of contemporary styles, dance, and cultural expressions. These resources offered not just static images but a sense of movement, attitude, and the evolving trends within the Black community.

Her research didn’t stop at popular media. Pierre-Weston also “researched yearbooks from the time, police officers from Colorado in the seventies.” This granular approach allowed her to understand how everyday individuals, beyond celebrities and fashion models, styled themselves. Examining yearbooks provided a glimpse into mainstream youth culture, while studying photos of 1970s Colorado police officers was crucial for creating authentic looks for the film’s law enforcement characters, ensuring their appearances reflected the practical realities of their profession rather than just idealized fashion trends. Crucially, she also tapped into personal history: “I talked to my mother who was around in the seventies.” First-hand accounts provide irreplaceable insights that no photograph can fully capture, offering context, personal preferences, and the lived experience of the era. After this exhaustive research, Pierre-Weston’s team meticulously began the physical preparation, crafting “wigs and pieces that would go with specific actors,” tailoring each look to suit the individual and their character’s role.

Martha Melendez’s Quest for Realism:

Martha Melendez’s research trajectory mirrored Pierre-Weston’s commitment to authenticity, albeit with a focus on different facets of the period. She, too, engaged in deep online research, specifically seeking out “articles from the 1970s with pictures of real-life events.” This particular emphasis on real-life events, rather than just staged fashion shoots, allowed Melendez to capture the rawness and unvarnished reality of the decade. News photographs and documentary images often depict people in candid moments, offering a truer representation of everyday hair and makeup than carefully curated studio shots.

Furthermore, Melendez sought out direct anecdotal evidence. She revealed, “I actually also called Ron and he helped me to learn a little bit more as far as the tone of the police station. At that time period when he was working.” While not explicitly stated, “Ron” is almost certainly Ron Stallworth, the real-life protagonist whose memoir inspired the film. His insights into the atmosphere, conditions, and practicalities of working in a 1970s police station would have been invaluable. This could inform subtle makeup choices – perhaps a slightly less polished look for officers, reflecting the gritty reality of police work, or specific concerns about skin tone matching under institutional lighting. Such details, though seemingly minor, contribute significantly to the film’s overall authenticity and immersive quality.

The Impact of Meticulous Detail on Storytelling

The dedication of LaWanda Pierre-Weston and Martha Melendez goes beyond simply making actors look “of the era.” Their work contributes profoundly to the film’s narrative power. By immersing the audience visually in the 1970s, they help to ground Spike Lee’s powerful commentary on race, policing, and identity in a tangible reality. The authentic hairstyles and makeup reinforce the characters’ motivations and experiences, making their struggles and triumphs more resonant. When viewers see the perfectly coiffed afros, the subtle makeup choices, or the distinct eyewear that defines the period, they are not just observing a historical recreation; they are witnessing a world carefully rebuilt to tell a vital story.

This commitment to historical accuracy is not merely an aesthetic choice; it is a narrative one. It allows the film to effectively draw parallels between the past and the present, a hallmark of Spike Lee’s directorial style. The visual fidelity of BlacKkKlansman acts as a bridge, connecting the audience to the historical events and characters, making the film’s powerful themes of systemic racism and social justice feel urgent and timeless.

A Well-Deserved Recognition

The meticulous efforts of the hair and makeup departments on BlacKkKlansman underscore the critical role these artisans play in the filmmaking process. Their ability to transport an audience through time, ensuring every visual element aligns with the story’s period, is a highly specialized skill deserving of the highest accolades. While Oscar nominations for the upcoming awards season were announced on January 22nd, 2019, the hope and support for LaWanda Pierre-Weston and Martha Melendez from BlacKkKlansman remained strong. Their exemplary work stands as a testament to the power of detailed artistry in bringing a historical narrative to vibrant, authentic life, proving that sometimes, the smallest details make the biggest impact on a film’s lasting legacy.